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Vogue Paris December 2013/January 2014: David And Victoria Beckham

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From the Vogue Paris web site…

"Nous avons confié les rênes de ce numéro à une femme qui, dans cette collaboration, s'est révélée tout le contraire de son image. Spontanée, pleine d'humour. Modeste et dotée d'une saine ambition à la fois. Perfectionniste comme les vrais passionnés", écrit Emmanuelle Alt, rédactrice en chef de Vogue Paris, dans l’édito du numéro de décembre/janvier 2014. Créatrice établie et désormais incontournable de la scène mode new-yorkaise, Victoria Beckham a construit son succès aux quatre coins du monde: à Londres tout d'abord, où elle décroche en 2011 le prix de Designer Brand of the Year, à Los Angeles ensuite, où se trouvent sa famille de cœur et ses adresses fétiches, et à Paris, au rythme des nominations de David Beckham. L'homme qui partage sa vie depuis 14 ans est bien entendu à ses côtés pour ce numéro de Vogue Paris. Une love story immortalisée en toute intimité sur deux couvertures collector par l'œil attendri du duo de photographes Inez & Vinoodh. Derrière les robes du soir et les smokings impeccablement coupés, David Beckham se raconte sous la plume de Marie Darrieussecq, quand Victoria se dévoile sans fard dans une interview complice. Comme une invitation à passer Noël en famille, Victoria Beckham plonge dans ses souvenirs et ouvre les pages de son album photo. Des clichés intimes émaillés de dessins signés par ses enfants: Harper, Cruz, Romeo et Brooklyn. A quoi ressemble le quotidien d'une créatrice propulsée dans le firmament du star system? Vogue le raconte à travers un reportage exclusif et vibrant dans les coulisses de son défilé printemps-été 2014, mais aussi en se glissant dans les robes de Victoria dans une série retraçant sa vie à Paris, ou en l'accompagnant lors d'un tea-time avec ses proches: un casting de rêve signé Valentino Garavani, Anish Kapoor ou Marc Jacobs, qui lui a un jour donné son meilleur conseil "sois fidèle à toi-même et ne lésine jamais sur la qualité". Une exigence qui traverse ce numéro de décembre/janvier, des idées cadeaux ultra-luxe aux images inédites de la maison de Brigitte Bardot, La Madrague, en passant par les tablettes puisque Vogue Paris lance en simultané son édition mensuelle digitale interactive et enrichie pour l’iPad.
 
Vogue Paris, n° 943, en kiosque le 2 décembre

"We entrusted the editor's chair for this issue to a woman who revealed herself to be the absolute opposite of her public image while we were working together. Spontaneous and full of humor, she's modest, with a healthy dose of ambition. And like all those who are truly passionate about what they do, Victoria is a perfectionist," writes Emmanuelle Alt, editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris in her December/January 2014 editorial. 

While Beckham has become a fashion superstar on the New York scene, she’s built a global business empire, never failing to build on her success wherever life has taken her. In London she picked up 2011’s Designer Brand of the Year award at the British Fashion Awards, in Los Angeles she made a home for herself and her family, and, in Paris she didn’t skip a beat, following husband David Beckham as he joined football team Paris Saint Germain. Indeed, David Beckham, the man with whom Victoria has shared her life for the past 14 years, was at the designer’s side throughout her time at Vogue Paris, a fact that shines through on the pages of the issue and in Inez & Vinoodh’s tender shots of the couple. Later in the issue, writer Marie Darrieussecq sits down with Beckham to discover what makes the woman behind all those stunning evening gowns and impeccably cut tuxedo suits tick. And, in an extended holiday invitation to Vogue Paris readers, Victoria Beckham shares Christmas memories, family photos, personal anecdotes and even some of her four children’s drawings. 

So, what does a typical day look like for the designer? Vogue Paris reveals all, stepping backstage at Beckham’s Spring/Summer 2014 show and following in the star’s famously high-heeled footsteps to take in her favorite Paris hotspots. Back in London come tea time, readers join Beckham and friends Valentino Garavani, Anish Kapoor and Marc Jacobs, once advised Beckham to “be true to yourself and never scrimp on style,” as they reminisce and talk fashion. And, to look at the pages of the issue which sparkle with holiday inspiration, luxury gift ideas and a little winter warmth courtesy of an exclusive look at La Madrague — Brigitte Bardot's house on the French Riviera, a corner of the country beloved by Bardot and Beckham alike — Victoria has taken Jacobs’ words to heart.

Vogue Paris, n° 943, out December 2

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Vogue Paris December 2013/January 2014 issue cover © 2013 Condé Nast.


Review: Vogue Paris November 2013 Issue

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Review: Vogue Paris November 2013 Issue
By Heather Dunhill

Most of us have a tried and true way of addressing a newly arrived issue of Vogue Paris. Well, I do anyway. I quickly buzz through then I give it a second go where I comb over the contents and little details. Of course, I have a few faves that I’d like to draw your attention to.

"Rendez-vous" always slows my initial thumbing through to a complete pause; it’s dependable eye candy. Really, if you don’t give it a second thought, I encourage you to take a peek. It features the next must-be-in-the-know highlights from art to music to people. Seriously. What’s more, they’re snippet snapshots quick copy to keep you current.  And, the photos have a captivating quality.

Same thing with "C’est Vogue," something gawk-worthy is front-and-center. This month’s "Allure Couture" first page highlights two pastel Dior handle bags, the word “fondant” is used to describe its decadence and I think it’s perfect. But it’s the Andy Warhol stiletto that will make you really want to own a piece of collaborative stylish art history. Don’t be too quick to speed past the editorial is styled by Celia Azoulay who has the potential to follow in the footsteps of Grace Coddington. ~Gasp!~ Did I actually say that??? Yep. She has tons of personality and original styling; the pix jump off the page. Or, you want to hop in, one or the other.

Of course, the cover story with Giselle is dynamic and divine, further proof that supermodels never go out of style, no matter the age. And, you can certainly rely on a smokin’ sexy hot layout, the epitome… non, rather so utterly French. It’s their right to remind the world they know the beauté of the bod and it’s not shock value, it’s fashion. Emmanuelle has reshaped and molded this tome into a must-read. Just what we’ve always wanted it to be…

PS: Be sure to catch a glimpse of the devastatingly gorgeous guy on pages 97-104. You just know he’s a bad boy who makes for a memorable date but he’s not the marrying kind.

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Vogue Paris editorial image © 2013 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

Review: Vogue Paris December 2013 Issue

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Review: Vogue Paris December 2013 Issue
By Heather Dunhill

Mon dieu! Have you seen the December cover of Vogue Paris? Please tell me you have. It’s a seductively sweet portrait of the Beckhams; Victoria and David, that is, by the dynamic photographic duo Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. I’m going out on a limb here and declaring it the most remarkable VP cover since Emmanuelle Alt took the reigns.

What’s incredibly cool is that the perpetually impeccable and always in demand Victoria Beckham served as the guest editor of the holiday issue, which includes a peek into her private life before and after David and their flock of four of the most gorgeous children ever. Victoria shares a personal side we rarely see that includes touching family photos and memories as well as some quality time with her friends Valentino Garavani and Marc Jacobs.

And the editorials are the precise blend of soigné and louche luxe from her Brigitte Bardotesque photos in "Beauté" to Violaine Binet’s interview "Queen Victoria" to "Vie privée" (Translation: "A Very Private Affair"). Victoria is proof that, as a woman, you really can have it all.

The entire tome is a lavish feast for the senses — perfect for the month in which we love to imbibe in all things decadent.

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Vogue Paris editorial image © 2013 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

Introducing… Paul Kolyer, Managing Editor

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I am thrilled to introduce the newest addition to the I Want To Be An Alt team — Paul Kolyer, managing editor! A loyal reader of the site, his enthusiasm for Emmanuelle Alt and all things Vogue Paris is contagious and I hope that his passion will be an inspiration to all. Please join me in welcoming Paul to the team!

Paul Kolyer
Managing Editor

Bonjour Vogue Paris Fans!

Indulge me in a fashion fantasy; as Emmanuelle and I are dashing to the next couture show, Jennifer Neyt from vogue.fr pulls me aside to ask a few rapid-fire questions, as if I'm someone from the Fashion Stratosphere!

Designer?
  Alber Elbaz.

IPod?
  Lana del Rey.

Film?
  Blow-Up.

TV?
  "Homeland."

Icon?
  Garbo.

Model?
  Anja Rubik.

Photographer?
  Hiro.

Color?
  Navy Blue.

Art?
  Antonio Canova.

Parfum?
  Muscs Koublai Khan by Serge Lutens.

Fashion Desire?
  Jumpsuit by Balmain Hommes SS14.

Accessory?
  Margiela cuff.

New Fashion Find?
  SIKI IM Men SS14.

Food?
  Vegetarian Sushi.

Book? 
  Minimalism and Fashion: Reduction in the Postmodern Era by Elyssa Dimant.

Architecture?
  Mies van der Rohe.

Obsession?
   Emmanuelle Alt.

Dream?
   Paris.

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Paul Kolyer photographs © 2013 Paul Kolyer. All Rights Reserved.

Vogue Paris: Bardot Comme Jamais

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The December 2013/January 2014 issue of Vogue Paris holds a special treat for lovers of Brigitte Bardot — exclusive photographs from inside her home in Saint-Tropez, La Madrague, as captured by filmmaker David Teboul for his film Bardot, la méprise. Our generous and polylingual contributing editor Kamila Brudzynska has translated from French to English, "Bardot comme jamais," the interview that Teboul granted to Vogue Paris. Merci belle Kamila ! J'adore Bardot toujours !

Bardot comme jamais
By Kamila Brudzynska

"So that's where she has always hidden? Brigitte Bardot is the idol and the inspiration of her generation." — VICTORIA BECKHAM

It has been forty years since Brigitte Bardot quit the cinema. In a magnificent film, the filmmaker David Teboul relies on very rare materials — exclusive access to La Madrague — and looks at the life of BB through an unexpected prism: her melancholy. Or how she remains one of the most beautiful fictional characters off screen.

How to touch on the Bardot topic today, forty years after her departure from cinema and after so many films and books have appeared about her?

DAVID TEBOUL: I did not want actors to take part because I wanted just the words of Bardot. I used her memoirs because I think she has said very interesting things, which she would not today. There is something in the order of present in Bardot’s past, there is something fictional and she makes it exciting, and I wanted to treat her as a fictional character. I did not want a factual portrait, I wanted the transfigured image of her. At first, I asked her to comment on a montage of photos of herself, but I quickly realized that I would have to do this film without Bardot and I knew that this refusal could only give something to the film. Finally, a ghost, it can be extraordinary.

How was your meeting with Bardot?

First, I talked to her husband and he helped me a lot. I told him I wanted to make a labor of love and restoration and it was the key. I did not have a meeting with her in La Madrague, but in her other house, in Garrigue, still in Saint-Tropez, where she was spending the afternoon with her animals. It’s a very simple house, protected better than the one in La Madrague, and she handles her foundation there. The meeting wasn’t the perfect one. She is an elderly woman, very angry and not serene, always with her characteristic passion, but with a bit of violence. I was troubled, because usually actresses are trying to be nice — not her. Bardot is a total renunciation. And at the same time, this is what fascinated me the most, that she lives in her own legend: her house is full of photos of her, books about her, etc. It reminded me of Gloria Swanson in Sunset Boulevard by Billy Wilder. With Bardot one is constantly in the present of her past. She told me: "If I am in your movie, it will serve you. If you have talent, you will be better off without me. It’s a present which I can give you, listen to me, it’s a present!” And then: "If you are not able to manage on your own, you won’t succeed. You must manage alone in your life.” From the beginning, she was taken by my beard: "Your beard is not possible. You have to shave it! Me, I could not!" But what I did gain was permission to film at La Madrague and her other house, and access to her family movies. And she gave me total freedom.

What did you discover by watching her family movies?

I discovered a little girl who wasn’t pretty. A bourgeois family. And the rapport with her mother, which was very interesting: she had a mimetic system with her mother, who was very beautiful and she comes into competition with her. She was free later thanks to dance. Early, Bardot is very physical. Moreover, she starts everything very early: she meets Vadim when she is 15 years old, she marries him at 18, she is a star at 20; in short, when she leaves the cinema in 1973 at 38 years old, she has already lived so much. What moves me about her is a melancholy which I see so early. Bardot is a euphoric melancholic, and like all euphorics, she alternates between the full and the void. This is the tension that I find beautiful, between a form of immediacy and a deep disenchantment that will, with age, catch up. She ended up being re-enclosed in childhood in her imagination, surrounded by her animals, that is to say, having exhausted all contradiction.

Do you understand why she radically abandoned the cinema?

She doesn’t believe in the truth of fiction, it’s a problem for her. She doesn’t believe in the characters that she interprets in the cinema, she believes only in a form of truth of life which makes it a bit tough. The great moments of Bardot are when the cinema and her life merge. The great directors were always inspired by the life of BB: in a very psychological manner with Clouzot, and much more transfigured with Godard, who shed his tricks.

You make Le Mépris (Contempt) her high point, as the only film which finally makes her a real actress…

Often, other directors relied on all of her devices, and Godard transformed her; he is the only one who really filmed her face, not just her body, and filmed in gravity, in a stripped game. But what is more important, he captured her disillusionment, her disenchantment — Bardot is a profoundly disenchanted person. I think that after this film, when she has reached something, she doesn’t have control, it’s over for her: she resigned from becoming a huge actress, from playing huge parts because basically, she resigned from work… She never wanted to be an actress. And what is beautiful, she will come to contradict her destiny, which was to be an actress, to reinvent a life.

Et Dieu créa la femme (And God Created Woman) is still a very important film...

This is an incredible gesture, that inspired the New Wave, without it taking that train. This film has been an accident, because with Bardot, everything is an accident: she mixes passion with passion, she is bored. She is a woman who is very bored. A great lover who is terrified of love, and who still thinks there is something that will be even more sublime. She always had the finest men, lesser known actors than her, Jean-Louis Trintignant to Sami Frey and Jacques Charrier, she remained the star. When she met the millionaire — Gunther Sachs, she said she had finally found a man on her level and she was still a huge star. But it’s a pure fiction. She doesn’t believe in the materiality of fiction and this makes her a romantic character outside the cinema. In my opinion, Gainsbourg was her last train because they both are the same, euphoric melancholics. She wasn’t an object for him but she became the subject. And there was something soft and feminine in her love for Gainsbourg. 

Why did you want to integrate the film?

I wanted to establish a dialogue between our two melancholies which are opposed by the difference in our statuses. This woman awakens in me feelings of loss… I find her very dark, but while being a party girl. And for Bardot, the truth is in life, while for me it is much more in the artifice of fiction.

Extract from David Teboul's film Bardot, la méprise, including interior footage of the private home of Brigitte Bardot.

Video of Brigitte Bardot singing "La Madrague" at La Madrague in 1968.

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Exclusive photographs of La Madrague, the home of Brigitte Bardot in Southern France © 2013 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

Vogue Paris February 2014: Emily DiDonato

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From the Vogue Paris web site…

Rencontre avec la nouvelle génération de mannequins stars, découverts sur les podiums et immortalisés ici sous l'œil des plus grands photographes de Vogue Paris. Un pari sur l'avenir à découvrir en kiosque le 22 janvier prochain.

"Fraîches comme si elles sortaient du collège, ou hypersophistiquées, beautés classiques ou singulières, 22 tops prennent la pose dans ce numéro. On reconnaît certaines dans la rue: Emily, Edita, Amanda, Andreea. D'autres font une carrière de star: Freja, Saskia, Edie, Georgia. Dans leur sillage, un florilège de nouveaux visages. Sur lesquels nous misons.", écrit Emmanuelle Alt, rédactrice en chef de Vogue Paris, dans l'édito du numéro de février 2014. David Sims, Inez & Vinoodh, Terry Richardson, Mario Sorrenti, Mikael Jansson... Ce sont les plus grands photographes et collaborateurs réguliers du magazine qui immortalisent sur papier glacé ces nouvelles filles en vogue. Une série de portraits à double visage, faisant monter progressivement la courbe du désir en dévoilant tour à tour le charme innocent ou la sensualité ravageuse de ces tops. C'est Edie Campbell qui ouvre les hostilités, suivie par les irrésistibles Andreea Diaconu, Sam Rollinson, Amanda Murphy ou Vanessa Axente. A fleur de peau, l'hypnotique Emily DiDonato laisse place à une Freja candide suivie d'une Saskia de Brauw électrisée par les feux de la nuit blanche. Des beautés laissant place à 12 mannequins aux noms prometteurs (Malaika, Riley, Estella...). Le temps de l'innocence se lit aussi au regard des reines de cœur se disputant la Mairie de Paris: une Anne Hidalgo et une Nathalie Kosciusko-Morizet s'affrontant sans détour dans ce numéro résolument tourné vers le futur.

Vogue Paris n°944, en kiosque le 22 janvier

First, we spotted them on the runway, then we called in some of the biggest photographers in the business to immortalize them for the glossy pages of Vogue Paris. Meet the next generation of modeling stars in the February issue, out January 22.

"Fresh-faced and schoolgirl-style, smooth and sophisticated, classic beauties and edgy new faces, 22 models feature in this issue. Like Emily, Edita, Amanda, and Andreea, you might know some of them if you saw them on the street. Others — think Freja, Saskia, Edie, and Georgia — are already established stars. In their wake, a clutch of the new faces that we're backing," writes Vogue Paris editor-in-chief Emmanuelle Alt in her February editorial. With David Sims, Inez & Vinoodh, Terry Richardson, Mario Sorrenti, and Mikael Jensson all behind the lens, some of the biggest snappers in the business and regular Vogue photographers were called upon to immortalize the girls on glossy paper, in a series of double portraits that reveal by turns the girls' innocent charm and sultry sensuality to super sexy effect. Edie Campbell leads the charge, followed by the irresistible Andreea Diaconu, Sam Rollinson, Amanda Murphy, and Vanessa Axente. A mesmerizing Emily DiDonato makes way for to a candid Freja and an electric Saskia, all beautiful girls who herald a raft of 12 promising young models including Malaika, Riley, and Estella. Remember their names. Two more for you, are Anne Hidalgo and Nathalie Kosciuscko-Morizet, Paris' queens of hearts currently fighting it out for the honor of being the first female mayor of the city. The two politicians go head-to-head in an issue that resolutely faces the future.

Vogue Paris n°944, out January 22

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Vogue Paris February 2014 issue cover © 2014 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

Rihanna For Balmain By Atelier Franck Durand

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Balmain released a sexy new campaign last month, starring Rihanna for their Spring/Summer 2014 print advertising campaign, with creative direction by Emmanuelle Alt's husband, Franck Durand. I love this quote by Olivier Rousteing describing his vision for the collection, "La femme Balmain n'est pas une victime, elle ose être ce qu'elle est." or in English, "The Balmain woman is not a victim, she dares to be what she is." Mais bien sûr. Regarding the choice of Rihanna, Rousteing stated, “When the woman that inspires you wears your creations, your vision feels complete. Not compromising, fresh, modern, the icon of my generation, Rihanna embodies my vision of Balmain in this new campaign. In front of the camera, she makes you feel like she is the only girl in the world.” The creative team for the campaign also boasts photographers Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin and Rihanna's own stylist, Mel Ottenberg. The IWTBAA editorial team was inspired to comment on the images as follows… Also be sure to view the videos from behind the scenes during the filming for the Balmain campaign.

Kamila Brudzynska
Contributing Editor

I’m a huge Balmain lover but from the time when Christophe Decarnin was the designer.  If I only could, I would own every little piece of his designs. I think that Olivier is a great designer, he has talent, but I don’t really feel his collections, I don’t see any character in them during shows. When Anja Rubik or Rihanna wears these clothes, they look incredible, maybe their personalities make them so awesome? I don’t know, but it would be hard to find the piece which I would love no matter what, like I love Decarnin’s designs. The campaign is very good, I love RiRi and it’s amazing how Balmain’s clothes underline her tattoos. My favorite photo is definitely the one in black and white pieces and with the top with deep décolletage (my favorite of her tattoos looks great here — the one under her breasts). Great model (or should I say personality?), great photographers, stylizations, production, and — without RiRi — decent clothes.

Heather Dunhill
Fashion Editor

Well, hello beautiful! The pix are out there and they are major. Rihanna is the new face of Balmain and she’s just as hot as the brand itself, it’s the perfect pairing. “She’s powerful, she knows how to mix beauty, she’s boyish, she’s strong… she’s the new icon,” reflected the fashion house’s creative director Olivier Rousteing, who further mused that he created the collection around the Barbadian bad girl.

Aside from the French connection, why is IWTBAA talking about the Balmain S/S 2014 campaign with RiRi? The creative director was none other than Emmanuelle Alt’s husband, Franck Durand. And, it’s easy to connect Franck’s style to that of Emmanuelle. Shot by Vogue Paris favorites Inez and Vinoodh, it’s an unapologetic throwback to the 80s merging 90s.

For a girl who’s preternaturally attuned to her natural street style, thanks to her stylist Mel Ottenberg, Rihanna fronts the campaign in all the right pieces from denim to blown-out houndstooth. All looks heavy with gilt accessories but just right, nonetheless. Check it out, she’s sure to raise Balmain’s street cred. No doubt.

Paul Kolyer
Managing Editor

Helmut Newton likened working for fashion houses to being "a hired gun" — and Inez and Vinoodh continue to fire off strong images for major houses, the latest (greatest) being Balmain. Starring Rihanna, with creative direction by Atelier Franck Durand (Ms. Alt's husband), and styled by Rihanna's stylist Mel Ottenberg. So cool to see RiRi bring new energy to Balmain. The photos really show off the clothes and Rihanna in such a flattering way, relaxed and pulled together Parisian chic, so Vogue Paris! Pastels, gold, lace, patterns, and killer accessories scream ladylike and seductive! RiRi's gaze really pulls you in, Olivier creates the Balmain woman that women want to be and men want to….

Check out Helmut Newton A Gun for Hire published by Taschen.

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Rihanna for Balmain images © 2013 Balmain. Rihanna and Olivier Rousteing photographs courtesy of instagram.com.

I Want To Be An Alt: Year Three

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Today is the third birthday of I Want To Be An Alt, and I want to express my heartfelt thanks to all of the wonderful writers and artists that contribute to the site, particularly my inspiring editorial team, and to all of the amazing readers that follow us, Emmanuelle Alt, and her Vogue Paris through these pages. During the month of February we will celebrate our anniversary and Valentine's Day with Love Notes to our favorite icons of French style. I will kick off the fun with my Love Note to Team IWTBAA: Justine Ariel, Kamila Brudzynska, Heather Dunhill, Richard James, Paul Kolyer, Bernie Rothschild, Yuka Ryou.

Bisous,
Kellina 

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Emmanuelle Alt photo courtesy of Fashion Spot. Blogiversary candy love by Kellina de Boer.


Vogue Paris March 2014: Lara Stone

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From the Vogue Paris web site…

Objet de tous les désirs et fantasmes, la femme fatale est à l'honneur du numéro de mars de Vogue Paris. Incarnée par Lara Stone, elle est rendue électrique par l'objectif du tandem Mert & Marcus. En kiosque le 21 février prochain.

"Qu'est ce qu'une femme fatale? Un miracle de la nature? Un vampire sexuel? Une virtuose de la mise en valeur? Un fantasme, ça c'est sûr. Les contours de la femme fatale sont d'autant plus complexes qu'il suffirait d'en citer quelques-unes pour prendre conscience qu'elles sont toutes très différentes", écrit Emmanuelle Alt, rédactrice en chef de Vogue Paris, dans l'édito du numéro de mars 2014. Pour tenter de percer ce mystère, ce n'est pas une mais quatre générations de muses qui se prêtent au prisme du magazine. En couverture, le top étoilé Lara Stone fait la démonstration de sa beauté troublante dans une bichromie, alternant un noir corsé et un rouge magnétique, capturée par l'objectif de Mert & Marcus. Des smokings et des lignes incendiaires de celle dont Vogue a lancé la carrière en 2007, aux essentiels de Jane Birkin, en passant par le magnétisme de Betty Catroux ou la troublante innocence de la jeune Marine Vacht, ce n'est pas une femme unique qui se dessine, mais une allure iconique et renversante. Un bouleversement des codes, qui se lit également à travers ces clichés d'autres filles en Vogue (Natasha Poly, Edie Campbell, Karlie Kloss...) n'hésitant pas à bousculer leur féminité pour mieux en éprouver le sens, à l'image d'une Toni Garrn sacrifiant en live pour le magazine ses longues mèches blond miel pour un carré au caractère affirmé. Ces amazones envoûtantes sont comme chez elles dans le magazine, comme en témoigne le portfolio de belles images vintage regroupées dans le supplément en l'honneur de l'exposition Papier Glacé, un siècle de photographie de mode chez Condé Nast qui se tiendra du 1er mars au 25 mai au Palais Galliera.

Vogue Paris n°945, en kiosque le 21 février

Object of desire and figure of fantasy par excellence, the femme fatale takes center stage for our March issue, covered by an electrifying Lara Stone shot by image-makers Mert & Marcus. On newsstands February 21.

"What is a femme fatale?" asks Vogue Paris editor-in-chief Emmanuelle Alt in her March 2014 editorial. "Is she a miracle of nature? A vamp? A master of sartorial enhancement? She's a fantasy figure, sure, but so complexly drawn that try to name just one or two of these women and you'll realize that they are all very different."

To answer the question, we called on not just one, but four generations of muses. Fashion superstar Lara Stone lays bare a troubling beauty in deep black and magnetic red for Mert & Marcus on the cover and from the flaming-hot figure of the model launched by Vogue Paris back in 2007 as she raises the temperature in tuxedos, to Jane Birkin's essentials and the magnetism of Betty Catroux, via the disturbing innocence of Marine Vacht, the muse takes shape inside the magazine. But she's not just one woman, the femme fatale is more an iconic, astounding allure that breaks all the rules. This same refusal of classic codes also runs through editorials featuring some of the biggest girls of the moment, including Natasha Poly, Edie Campbell and Karlie Kloss, who readily play with their femininity as they explore what the term really means. And no-one more so than Toni Garrn, who sacrificed her honey blonde locks live for the magazine, in favor of an assertive bob in this issue. Stunning Amazonian women have always been at home in the magazine, evidenced in this month's supplement of beautiful vintage images from Coming into Fashion, a Century of Photography at Condé Nast, a new exhibition at Paris' Palais Galliera March 1 - May 25.

Vogue Paris n°945, on newsstands February 21

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Vogue Paris March 2014 issue cover © 2014 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

IWTBAA Love Note: Emmanuelle Alt

IWTBAA Love Note: Olivier Rousteing

IWTBAA Love Note: Lou Doillon

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IWTBAA Love Note: Lou Doillon
By Heather Dunhill

Lou Doillon instantly came to mind when Paul Kolyer, IWTBAA managing editor, asked the team to choose a Paris Voguette for a Valentine. To me, Lou is the epitome of the modern day independent French femme. She’s the girl we look to when we want to know how to do that perfectly undone chic vibe, surprisingly with just a few pieces at hand. Her simplistic gamine gorgeousness is incredibly refreshing.

What’s more, she’s making her own way as model, actress, and singer despite her pedigree. Just FYI: Lou’s the daughter of French film director Jacques Doillon and British chanteuse Jane Birkin. Of course you know the iconic, lust-worthy Hermès Birkin bag — yep, named for her mère. But to her credit, Lou doesn’t trade on the family tree.

Lou quietly, possibly reluctantly as a wild child, moved onto the style scene but then exploded onto the radar screen when her debut album Places was released. It’s moody poetry for the cool girl. Completes my perception of her in the perfect tense. Since the album’s launch we’ve seen this It-girl in campaigns from Barneys New York to Saint Laurent Paris to Chloé The girl seems to have it all and to be making all the right choices… Très chic, non?

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Lou Doillon photographs courtesy of directcurrentmusic.com and smagazine.com.

IWTBAA Love Note: Anja Rubik

Vogue Paris Translation: Le Point De Vue De Vogue February 2014

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Pour la première fois, une femme va piloter Paris, l'Hôtel de Ville aura sa reine. Laquelle de Nathalie Kosciusko-Morizet ou Anne Hidalgo l'emportera ? Encore un mois et demi de campagne à l'heure où nous bouclons… C'était le moment idéal. Les candidates à l'écharpe municipale se sont confiées à nous sans filtre. Surprenantes. Passionnées, et passionnantes. Toutes les femmes qui figurent dans ce numéro ont une vision. À New York, la galeriste et marchande d'art Dominique Lévy nous a ouvert sa porte. Ses choix aventureux ont fait d'elle une experte hors pair, capable de jongler avec les prix exorbitants du marché, tout comme de mettre sur pied des expositions de niveau muséal. C'est à Londres que nous avons rencontré Fatima Bhutto, héritière d'une dynastie marquée du sceau du glamour et de la tragédie. La jeune femme, 31 ans, ne fait pas de politique. Elle est écrivain. Une voix nouvelle, de portée internationale, pour dire les turbulences du Pakistan.

Fraîches comme si elles sortaient du collège, ou hypersophistiquées, beautés classiques ou singulières, 22 tops prennent la pose dans ce numéro. On reconnaît certaines dans la rue : Emily DiDonato, Edita Vilkeviciute, Amanda Murphy, Andreea Diaconu. D'autres font une carrière de star : Freja Beha, Saskia de Brauw, Edie Campbell, Georgia May Jagger. Dans leur sillage, un florilège de nouveaux visages. Sur lesquels nous misons. David Sims, Mario Sorrenti, Inez & Vinoodh, Mikael Jansson ont répondu présents pour les mettre en valeur. Et la mode, librement, célèbre le noir, la lumière, la sensualité, le blanc virginal… qui vont si bien aux femmes.

For the first time, a woman will drive Paris, City Hall will have its queen. Will Nathalie Kosciusko-Morizet or Anne Hidalgo prevail? Another month and a half in the campaign until the time when we close... It was a perfect time. The candidates for the municipal sash entrusted us with no filter. Amazing. Passionate and exciting. All of the women presented in this issue have a vision. In New York, the gallery owner and art dealer Dominique Lévy has opened the door. Her adventurous choices have made ​​her an unparalleled expert, able to juggle the exorbitant market prices, as well as develop exhibitions to the museum standards. It was in London that we met Fatima Bhutto, heir to a dynasty marked with the seal of glamour and tragedy. The young woman, 31 years old, does not make policy. She is a writer. A new voice, international in scope, to tell of the turmoil in Pakistan.

Fresh as if they came out of college, or hypersophisticated, classic or singular beauties, 22 tops strike a pose in this issue. We recognize some street: Emily DiDonato, Edita Vilkeviciute, Amanda Murphy, Andreea Diaconu. Others make a career as a star: Freja Beha, Saskia de Brauw, Edie Campbell, Georgia May Jagger. In their wake, a selection of new faces. On which we focus. David Sims, Mario Sorrenti, Inez & Vinoodh, Mikael Jansson were present for the showcase. And the fashion, clearly, celebrates black, light, sensuality, virginal white... which go so well with women.

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Vogue Paris editorial image © 2014 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

Review: Vogue Paris February 2014 Issue

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Review: Vogue Paris February 2014 Issue
By Heather Dunhill

If you live and die by the beauty trends off the pages of Vogue Paris, then the fresh-faced Emily DiDonato, who graces the February cover, lets you know that you are in for a downsizing from the heavy-handedness of the smokey eye to glowing spring makeup.

All you have to do is turn the pages to spot the continental fashion shift to a soft wash of lighter, clean eye hues like ethereal white eye makeup powered by statement lashes for a pop. And the lip colors range from au naturel to bright berry tones that perk up an otherwise neutral face.

It’s not just a blinking caution light to signal the change — the alarm has sounded; the doors have closed on deep warm shading. Take, for instance, the simple beauty shades that Prada pairs with their primary colors for their spring campaign. Or, the petal pinks on the lovely femme in the "C’est Vogue" editorial paired with the chic metallic look, even black, so your nighttime look should also go on notice.

If you still need convincing, check out the stunning Edita Vilkeviciute in the layout for the Bijoux section, "Rose d’hiver" which translates to “Winter Rose.”  Soft, feminine, and delicate yet modern faces are the trend throughout.

It’s a sporty, smart, and sassy look for spring that was also seen on the Spring/Summer 2014 runways from Prabal Gurung to Donna Karan. And, I’m sure we can all agree that there’s no better time to embrace la vie en rose than now. It may even help to melt the nagging chill of winter….

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Vogue Paris editorial images © 2014 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.


IWTBAA Love Note: The French Femme

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IWTBAA Love Note: The French Femme
By Bernie Rothschild

What comes to mind when thinking of French women is glamorous, sharp, alluring, and chic. The French femme, in particular la femme parisienne, has this impeccable style that is divine and immaculate. In fact, the French make everything so chic, even things that may be a bit irreverent… Take, for example, prostitution. One of the images that sticks in my mind is the editorial "Nocturne Parisien" that Emmanuelle Alt styled for Vogue Paris in August 2006 starring Eva Herzigova. Photographed by Mario Sorrenti while she roams around looking sensual in the streets of Paris, this reminded me of prostitute chic. Then Marc Jacobs glamorized prostitution in one of his last collections for Louis Vuitton. And of course who could forget Catherine Deneuve's iconic portrayal of a prostitute in Belle de jour  dressed in Yves Saint Laurent. Prostitution is wrong in every way but the French make it look so chic.

Let's also remember that it was the French who made infidelity fashionable for a time, think about the 18th century maîtresse-en-titre at the court of Versailles. Infidelity was acceptable among this decadent court, the mistresses had their etiquette and titles, some were even given power by the king. The greatest example of this is Jeanne-Antoinette Poisson, historically known as Madame de Pompadour, the notable mistress of Louis XV. Madame de Pompadour's "service" was not just useful for pleasure, she wielded influence which extended to art and political power in the king's court during the rise of the Enlightenment. Madame de Pompadour was involved in matters of diplomacy between France and its worst enemy, Austria, which made possible the marriage of the Austrian Marie Antoinette to Louis XVI.

Known for her exquisite taste for rococo style, Madame de Pompadour oversaw and planned the construction of the Palais de la Concorde and the Petit Trianon in the garden of Versailles that was built after her death. The Trianon was occupied by Madame du Barry, the last maîtresse-en-titre of Louis XV, and then was given to Marie Antoinette by Louis XVI when he acceded to the throne. (Take note that the Trianon was intended for the mistresses of the king and Marie Antoinette was claimed to be the first queen consort who can be a wife and mistress to the king.) Madame de Pompadour was also the patron of many artists and intellectuals of her time such as Voltaire. The king even gave her the Palais de L'Élysées, one of the most beautiful palaces in the world, as her residence. Madame de Pompadour was a notable women of such intelligence and great style that she become the unofficial Reine de France, the power behind the throne. Vive les femmes françaises !

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Vogue Paris editorial images © 2006 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

IWTBAA Love Note: Anastasia Barbieri

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Anastasia Barbieri, that name, so chic. A Russian/Italian countess or a prima ballerina? I was intrigued of course, the mastheads; redactrice at large for Vogue Paris, fashion director for Vogue Hommes International. I remember a first glimpse, in a photo when Carine Roitfeld took over Vogue Paris! Halcyon days! The chic French brunettes, and the blonde (also a fave) Julia von Boehm. Anastasia's personal style is relaxed and simple, but always well-tailored. So different from the flashy editors but not monastic black either. Slim men's suits in neutrals, unbuttoned blouses, and Chloé-esque day dressing.

Anastasia is a poetic realist, her work is mostly single girls or boys in relaxed offhand moments where their personalities shine through. Casual and real, they are caught in private thoughts and personal rituals. The subject forgets you're watching and doesn't pose for you, they are lost in the day to day and just happen to look amazing, for themselves, a personal style, no fashion victims here.

I shunned men's fashion magazines for quite a while and only recently took to Vogue Hommes when Carine, Emmanuelle, and Anastasia began styling for it. They contrasted and complemented each other in Vogue Paris and Vogue Hommes in a similar way, their men were totally their own like the girls. As I look at Vogue Hommes Spring/Summer 2010 with Emmanuelle's fantastic Kate Moss in black-and-white by Mario Sorrenti on the cover, the styling is classic for each editor. Kate mostly nude on a beautiful beach by Sorrenti and Alt, and a David Sims photo shoot with Alt's model styled like a modern day Elvis. Carine is all decadent with lounging boys, torsos exposed, fallen on luxe pillows and fabrics, like Rudolf Nureyev. The "virtuoso bodies" by Demarchelier. Anastasia styles a model who looks like Basquiat in the latest menswear, so effortless and put together, I really feel like it's Jean-Michel, as he urinates against a wall in a Calvin Klein jacket. She knows how women want to see men look, real and masculine, accessible and sexy. They make it seem easy and and don't try too hard yet look amazing, it's hard to do!

In the latest issue of Vogue Hommes, Anastasia Barbieri styles beautiful photos by Jeff Burton. She just worked with him on the Cerruti 1881 S/S 2014 campaign. For the spread "Le Damné" or "The Damned," Burton's photos are quiet, subtle and subdued with naturalistically lit interiors. Again a single model, in his own ambience, as we watch he breathes for some other air, not for us....

 "a vague melancholy, like invisible scent,
  in these rooms, a lover was here.
  not now, in the past, from day to night waiting for the future,
  doomed to remember.
  a mirror to see her approaching, the mirror was here, and will be again.
  faint movement in the air, is someone there?
  should we dress for dinner? i'll wait, i know you're coming, never today.
  then tomorrow arrives with the sun through a window and always fades
  while I wait here alone inside myself, only the damned remain."

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Editorial images courtesy of i-dmagazine.com. All Rights Reserved.

Vogue Paris April 2014: Cameron Russell

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From the Vogue Paris web site...

Cap sur Miami avec Cameron Russell, un top engagé sublimé par l'œil de Mario Testino en couverture de cette édition audacieuse. En kiosque le 26 mars. "Les beaux jours arrivent. Cet avant-goût de l'été dans l'air colore et dope les pages de Vogue ce mois-ci. La mode a ainsi embarqué pour South Beach Miami. Hâlés par les U.V sous un soleil précoce, les tops photographiés par Mario Testino dans la série "Miami Heat" ont la peau couleur caramel et l'allurée libérée, conquérante", écrit Emmanuelle Alt, rédactrice en chef de Vogue Paris, dans l'édito du numéro d'avril 2014. En couverture, le top Cameron Russell continue son engagement pris au TED en 2012 et s'affranchit de la simple image pour faire entendre sa voix. Une rencontre organisée à New York au début de la Fashion Week automne-hiver 2014-2015 et qui s'est poursuivie sous les feux de la Floride. Des clichés vibrants photographiés par Mario Testino et capturant cette Jungle Fever sous les traits de Cameron ou de Malaika Firth. L'énergie magnétique de cette série innerve aussi la beauté, avec Karlie Kloss en trainer de haute volée, la musique avec le dernier disque d'Emmanuelle Seigner en écoute, ou encore les robes pleines d'audace de Riccardo Tisci, posant ici avec ses amis de toujours. Les filles en vogue s'évadent déjà vers le grand bleu avec la série Miss Vogue ou les grandes étendues nomades, quand les jolies têtes blondes du Vogue Enfants attendent les beaux jours dans leurs belles robes blanches romantiques. Un doux parfum de printemps, en kiosque le 26 mars.

Vogue Paris heads to Miami with model activist Cameron Russell this month, and a bold cover by Mario Testino. Available March 26. "Here comes the sun. Spring brightens the pages of Vogue Paris this month as fashion heads for South Beach Miami, where Mario Testino captured sun-kissed girls under the early summer sun, for the Miami Heat editorial. With their caramel skin, these are free, conquering women," writes Vogue Paris editor-in-chief Emmanuelle Alt in her April 2014 editorial. Cover girl Cameron Russell continues the commitment to challenging discrimination and promoting healthy body image that she started with her TED talk in 2012, turning to imagery to make her voice heard. A meeting organized for New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2014-2015 is followed by the bright lights of Florida, as Mario Testino captures Cameron alongside Malaika Firth in the vibrant "Jungle Fever" editorial. A magnetic energy runs through the magazine this month, in our beauty editorial featuring Karlie Kloss as a top-flight personal trainer, through to the latest album from Emmanuelle Seigner and the audacious work of Riccardo Tisci, who poses for us with a clutch of his oldest friends. The models of the moment are already heading for the ocean in the "Miss Vogue" spread, along with the little ones in the Vogue Enfants supplement, who can't wait for summer to look as pretty as a picture in their white sundresses. Fresh fashion on a light Spring breeze, available March 26.

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Vogue Paris April 2014 issue cover © 2014 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

Vogue Paris: Pin Ups

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Vogue Paris: Pin Ups
By Paul Kolyer

Joe McKenna has had a stellar career and styled for Vogue Paris many times! The April issue pairs him with David Sims for "Pin Ups."

The mood is young, and the layout looks new with borders of bright color, and colored rectangles layered under the photos. Sims shows his masterful hand at color and black-and-white! I really like his color work lately, his Jil Sander campaign {men also] has beautiful colors!

A fave new model of mine, Binx steals the show! Binx in Céline!, perhaps the most photographed collection of the season? Lovely photo of her in intense makeup, please try blue eye shadow girls! Love her zebra barrette, she reminds me of Annabella from Bow Wow Wow!

McKenna includes some strong newer designers like J.W. Anderson, Yang Li, and Jacquemus. Paco Rabanne's pink overalls are featured in one photo. This legendary house is being revived by Julien Dossena, he's on the right track with this spring collection, I wish him well!

The last photo of Binx in a Nike jersey and Céline skirt is very "model off duty," she's the fashion girl next door, without the uptight attitude. This feeling starts out the editorial in the first picture, black-and-white, the smiling girl, very laid back {literally} and nonchalant! Saint Laurent of course, but thankfully these girls are not your typical "Pin Ups."

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Vogue Paris editorial images © 2014 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

Vogue Paris May 2014: Sophie Marceau

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From the Vogue Paris web site...

Une rencontre inspirante avec Sophie Marceau photographiée par Mario Testino pour inaugurer ce mois de mai dédié au 7ème art. En kiosque le 29 avril.

"Mai est le mois des actrices. Que vaudrait le Festival de Cannes sans l'envolée d'une robe, l'allure époustouflante d'une star à la montée des marches? En couverture de ce numéro, Sophie Marceau, LA star hexagonale, n°1 dans les suffrages, ce mois-ci à l'affiche du film de Lisa Azuelos "Une Rencontre", l'histoire d'un coup de foudre entre fantasme et réalité.", écrit Emmanuelle Alt, rédactrice en chef de Vogue Paris, dans l'édito de ce numéro de mai. Une édition étoilée menée par Sophie Marceau, intime sous l'objectif de Mario Testino et la plume du philosophe Vincent Cespedes. Les robes de la couture virevoltent en mouvement avec les Twins, deux danseurs français ayant marqué les chorégraphies de Beyoncé de leurs steps aériens, les carats dansent sous les feux de la rampe et les experts L'Oréal Paris livrent tous leurs conseils beauté pour se voir ouvrir les portes de ce Cannes confidentiel. Avant que ne s'ouvre ce 67ème Festival du cinéma, il est toujours temps de prendre la route pour s'offrir un week-end chic et parfaire son bronzage sous les rayons des plus beaux endroits du monde, bien protégée par le bon indice et le maillot adéquats. Pour ainsi se façonner un destin solaire à l'instar des égéries de ce numéro: Sophie Marceau, Gia Coppola ou l'iconique Jackie Kennedy-Onassis.

Photographed by Mario Testino, we meet French actress Sophie Marceau on the cover of the May issue, on sale April 29.

"May is a month for actresses. What would the Cannes Film Festival be without flowing gowns and stunning stars walking the red carpet? French film star par excellence Sophie Marceau covers this issue, currently on the big screen in Lisa Azuelos' Quantum Love, a love story on the cusp of fantasy and reality," writes Vogue Paris editor-in-chief Emmanuelle Alt, in her May editorial. Sophie Marceau leads a star-studded issue, seen through the lens of Mario Testino and beautifully drawn by writer Vincent Cespedes. Couture gowns swirl around Les Twins — the light-footed French dance duo on tour with Beyoncé, diamonds sparkle in the spotlight and the experts from L'Oréal Paris share their beauty tips, as they take us backstage at Cannes. And before hitting the 67th Film Festival itself, we squeeze in a weekend in the sun in some of the most beautiful sun traps in the world, to show you how to catch those early rays safely, complete with the swimwear to best show off your glow. The future is bright and sunny: look to Sophie Marceau, Gia Coppola and the iconic Jackie Kennedy Onassis for inspiration this season.

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Vogue Paris May 2014 issue cover © 2014 Condé Nast. All Rights Reserved.

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